Bear in Mind, Emily

Albania is undoubtedly one of the most mesmerizing countries I’ve had the pleasure to explore, with the perfect combo of tranquility and excitement. From beaches that earns the country its ‘Maldives of Europe’ nickname, to bustling cities and the panoramic mountains of the Albanian Alps, you can’t go wrong with a trip to the Balkans. We rented a car and made our way around as much of the country as we could in the time we had! Adventure time!

Where to Stay/Visit

Tiranë

Tiranë, or Tirana as some call it, is the capital of Albania and it’s a buzzing, lively city packed with history. It is not yet as touristy or popular as most other European capital cities. You’ll find street art throughout the city with plenty of architecture and culture to explore. Go back in time at the Bunk’Art Museums to learn about the Hoxha regime and communist past. You’ll have the opportunity to educate yourself while exploring other-worldly underground anti-nuclear bunkers built to protect the higher-ups in the communist regime. We didn’t spend much time in the capital (definitely worth another trip!) but we did manage to visit the Bunk’Art 1 museum located on the edge of the city. Bovilla Canyon is a beautiful day trip out of the city, only one hour driving but a tour would be recommended without a car rental. Picture a sparkling, turquoise river flowing down a valley parallel to the road, easily accessed for a dip during a driving break. Nearby is the family run Neli Restaurant, with a local relaxed atmosphere. We stumbled across this cute spot and found ourselves some super cheap beer and got to try some Raki – locally produced brandy/liquor. Highly recommend popping in!

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Shkodër

One of the most quaint, yet buzzing, small towns. Lovely spot to take a stroll down the old cobblestone streets, sit outside a cafe and do some reading or people-watching if that’s your thing. Pasticeri Flo is the oldest cafe in Shkodër and is the perfect pitstop. Football is important to the Albanians and so we got to experience the passion on the streets of Shkoder. Projectors setup along the street showing a game, groups of locals cheering from the seats taken from bars/restaurants and beer flowing!

Visit Rozafa Castle for a delightful journey through history and breathtaking views over the charming town and the stunning Kiri River. Whether you’re captivated by spectacular backdrops or enjoy navigating winding roads, a drive to the nearby Serpentine Road viewpoint at the Montenegro border is a must! Enjoy a scenic drive towards Shiroka and Zogaj, where you’ll be treated to some of the most beautiful coastal views, perhaps even sharing the road with some friendly horses. We were thrilled to discover a hidden beach made of concrete slabs, just perfect for a refreshing dip or lounging in the sun. While exploring for access to the water (a small adventure in itself!), we were warmly guided down some steps by a kind elderly gentleman, which only added to the excitement. As we made our way through his delightful garden filled with dogs, cats, and ducks, we were led to this peaceful bathing spot, making our day even more memorable.

Grandpa’s Apartment – Shkodër

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Theth to Valbonë

Theth National Park and Valbona Valley National Park – what more do you need? A must visit for hiking, trekking, waterfall chasing and admiring the snow-capped Albanian alps! Theth is a small village in the northern region which makes a great starting point for hiking trails. Located only 2 hours away from Shkodër, a day trip is totally doable. Or better yet, hike through the mountains for the day to the Valbonë Valley and spend some time this side of the tracks. Take a look at my blog Albanian Alps: Theth to Valbonë Hike to discover more on this adventure!

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Vlorë

A relatively small port town on the Bay of Vlorë with a rich history offering plenty of beautiful sandy beaches to choose from, each with its own charm and unique beauty. It is a lovely town to explore on foot, where you can meander through the narrow streets, discovering historic monuments that tell stories of the past and quaint cafes that open up onto the street, inviting you to sit and enjoy a coffee or cold beer while watching the world go by.

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Dhërmi

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Sarandë

Olti’s Beach House

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Furry Friends and Wildlife

I hope you guys love dogs as much as Niall and I! Wild/street/community dogs are everywhere! Of course, if for some reason they aren’t your thing, you can easily avoid them – they don’t come looking for cuddles or food, unless you offer! Some street dogs may not associate us humans with ‘good’ (and why should they!?) so don’t try to be their hero unless you can commit to it. If a dog displays signs that they prefer to be alone, it is probably safer to leave them be. A few tips –

• There have been no reported cases of rabies in Albania since 2014 but it does exist. Always have your wits about you and consider vaccination if staying long term – only few cities will stock the post-exposure prophylaxis (PEP)/rabies immunoglobin (RIG – needed if not pre-vaccinated) needed in case of a bite/scratch so best case is always Tirana in case of emergency!
• Don’t befriend the pups/doggos or take them with you unless you plan to make it permanent – if you move them from their location, they potentially lose their food source, their territory and their home.
• If you notice the tip of their ear is missing, don’t panic, it is most likely a result of them being part of a TNR (Trap-Neuter-Return) program.
• TNR programs and NGOs are more prominent across the country nowadays so always report if you see a dog in distress – badly injured or in need of help.
• Apply the same sense you would to dogs anywhere else – don’t disrupt a sleeping dog, avoid packs unless you know them, look out for any signs of fear/aggression.
• If you’ve been to Thailand/Vietnam/Sri Lanka, you’ll know the strays love to lie on the roads despite the traffic. Same goes for Albania – some dogs love to rest on the roads so be careful when driving!

Another thing to be watchful of is all the tortoises on the roads, especially around the midlands. We stopped and move a few out of harm’s way but they are very delicate creatures – don’t handle them unless you are familiar or they are truly in a dangerous situation. I have some relevant experience and would be used to them so it was usually myself doing the moving while Niall drove – passenger princess responsibilities, right?!

Keep an eye out for the beautiful horses along the side of the roads – we met a few herds throughout our travels. One herd we stopped to admire was just outside of Dhërmi but sadly these were left in what looked like a dumping ground. We found a mare and foal, the mare will a bell around her neck and the foal munching on a piece of plastic, which I carefully took away. We took this opportunity to collect some of the rubbish and fill the boot of the car to dispose of later that day. If we all do a little bit where we can, it will make all the difference! Another beautiful herd we found in Shiroka, beside Shkodër, along the coast. So wild and free.

Car Rentals

Renting a car is definitely the easiest way to travel around the country stress-free and without limitations. It allows you to stop where you like, choose your viewpoints, and make itinerary changes on the fly – perfect for those spontaneous detours. We advise always to rent with a reputable company, as we made things a little tricky for ourselves by renting from an individual for a few days. Let’s just say that while we got to experience the local flavor, there were moments when we questioned our life choices. Be warned that people drive like maniacs in Albania, where traffic rules seem to be more of a suggestion than a guideline! All jokes aside, Google Maps is not reliable for driving around Albania – on two separate occasions, maps took us to a set of stairs mid-route and also won’t take one-way systems into account! So, buckle up and prepare for an adventure that’s full of unexpected turns (quite literally)!

Unmissable Spots Along The Way!

Berat

Blue Eye

You may hear reference to the Blue Eye elsewhere in Albania, such as the one in Theth, but this location truly is the spot you want to visit. It is similar to the Plitvice Lakes in Croatia, only on a much more compact scale and more affordable. It’s undeniable beauty is certainly worth a visit. It is best accessed by car or with a tour. Suitable for families, couples or solo, the site has a designated trail easy to follow. You have the option to buy cold drinks, or beer in my case, and chill by the river soaking up the sun’s rays. Just a heads up, swimming is strictly prohibited to protect the ecosystem (however, you’ll always find those who just can’t resist breaking the rules!).

Porto Palermo

A tranquil, hidden gem along the Albanian Riviera, Porto Palermo is the perfect spot to unwind in a local territory rich with cultural and historical significance. Nestled in the bay, surrounded by green hills and Palermo Castle, the serene turquoise waters are just perfect for swimming, sunbathing, or even enjoying some paddleboarding if that suits your fancy! While many beaches along the Albanian coast may be privately owned – which can be a slight disappointment for those on a short visit – this enchanting spot is open for all to enjoy. Simply set up your umbrella, lay out your towel, and prepare for a delightfully relaxing day surrounded by peace and beauty.