When we first discovered Theth National Park, we knew we had to experience what the pictures and descriptions promised. Although we typically aren’t fans of ‘out and back’ trails, we turned this adventure into a rewarding point-to-point hike, with a loop starting and finishing in the charming town of Shkodër. We tracked our progress using the AllTrails app, and the figures below reflect our personal stats. We can’t recommend this hike enough—it’s truly a remarkable experience, and we hope you find all the information you need below to embark on your own journey!
- Elevation gain: 1214 m
- Elevation above sea level: <1900 m
- Length: 15.4 km
- Total time: approximately 7 hours, allowing for breaks
- Difficulty: Moderate – Hard
Starting and Finishing in Shkodër…
It may seem daunting based on the information below, but this is just a detailed breakdown of each transport option available throughout the journey, ensuring a smooth and enjoyable experience. This comprehensive guide will help you budget and time your own adventure effectively, allowing you to explore the stunning landscapes without any worries. Komani Lake Ferry (Berisha) is the company to book all your transport hassle-free. Of course, anyone can drive to Theth National Park themselves, enjoying the freedom of the open road, but making your way back means extra hiking, which can be tiring, and possibly using the same trail again (not our style!).
Shkodër to Theth
Valbonë to Fierzë
Fierzë to Koman
Koman to Shkodër
2 hours via bus
1 hour via bus
2.5 hours via ferry
2 hours via bus
€13
€9
€10
€9
For those who like to know the little details in advance, I can give you a breakdown of what to expect along the trip! An important tip: It’s cheaper to book your tickets online!
We booked our tickets two days in advance with no issues, and even received email reminders. Our bus collected us outside Hotel Razafa (central and easy to find) around 06:30AM and soon hit the road towards Theth National Park. We stopped at a small, family run cafe in Bogë for a toilet break and to stretch the legs. Don’t expect anything fancy, but classic strong black coffee is available, with a view of the beautiful Albanian mountainous countryside. We had the pleasure of seeing some pigs roaming freely, making their way up the the country road.
The bus pickup bound for Fierzë from Valbonë offers collection from wherever you stay in the area. It drops you at a boat dock along the river in Fierzë where you’ll catch the ferry. You can rest easy for a relaxing cruise down the river with a beer in hand soaking in the breathtaking views all around you. One thing to remember is staying safe in the sun – the boats have cover available!
As the ferry docks in Koman, you’ll be greeted by a range of different tours and vehicles in front of a tunnel. A little lost, we carried on walking through the tunnel, as did many other tourists at the time. Coming out the other side, we found our bus back to Shkodër. Just a heads up, the ride back to the city can be a bit bumpy at times, but the scenic views make it all worthwhile!
Theth to Valbonë Hiking Trail…
Luscious meadows. Forest trails. Ice-capped peaks in the distance.
After arriving at Theth National Park, now is the time to pick up some last-minute snacks, extra drinking water or use the toilet before heading up the gravel path to start your trek.
Don’t let the dull gravel path at the beginning deter you… The trail quickly develops and closes in on a forest. As two very casual hikers, we found the elevation intense, but abundantly rewarding. The ground can be pretty uneven so pay attention, especially if you happen to be a tad clumsy like myself! We were lucky enough to meet some company along the way and by “company”, I mean animals (there were plenty of friendly fellow hikers as well, if that’s your preference) – you’ll most likely meet some friendly doggos and horses!
You’ll pass over a small stream so if you need a water refill, here is the place to top up (I filled my bottle up here without any repercussions!). It is considered safe to drink, but of course if you have a filter water bottle, even better! Here is the filter water bottle I have started using for travelling – LifeStraw Go Series — Insulated Stainless Steel Water Filter Bottle. Around 2 hours into the hike, you’ll stumble upon a quaint cafe bar up in the mountains – an ideal break point for a local sweet treat known as baklava and a rejuvenating ice cold beer (or a Sprite!), whatever suits your fancy! There are toilets here too… I advise taking the chance to use them. Ascending over 1900m elevation, you’ll reach the highest point along the trail, after covering about 7km, with breathtaking views of the valley below and the surrounding peaks. Take a minute. Breathe it in.
The second half of the trail is just as enjoyable, with plenty more stunning views, and a break from the incline! Just to note, there is another cafe, Simoni Kafe, to potentially stop at on the way down but we didn’t try this one out as we were on a roll. Towards the end of the trail appears similar to the beginning, in that it reverts back to gravel and rocky terrain at the bottom of the valley – watch your footing! Don’t let the sense of a construction or mining zone here put you off as you are heading towards a tarmac road. About 1km up the road, you’ll find the guest house we chose to stay at. You’ll pass many lodging options along the way, but having a booking always helps, especially during a busy peak season!
Where to stay when you reach Valbonë…
Lazer Çardaku Guest House
Address: Rruga Azem Hajdari Valbone Tropoj, 8702 Valbonë
Costs per night for double room:
€40 (Jan-May; Sep-Dec)
€45 (June)
€50 (Jul-Aug)
We booked our stay at Lazer Çardaku Guest House only 2 days in advance and were lucky enough to find a room available. The guest house is cosy and family-run, with a homestay vibe. We got a comfortable double room with a spare bed, and private bathroom located down the hall. Food is available at the property, mainly consisting of super fresh local dishes – vegetarians/vegans may be limited to soups, salads, or french fries! The family working on-site are fantastic and welcoming. You may have some furry company like we did – their cuddly, ginger cat joined me at dinner time.
This was most definitely one of the highlights of my trip to Albania. It was challenging, full of unreal views and an adventure in itself. If you ever visit Albania, make sure to add this one to your list! Keep in touch as I post some more of my top experiences!
Bear in Mind, Emily 
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